CHEF MIA WASILEVICH COOKS WITH WEEDS
Speaking in Sierra Madre this coming week
[Nyerges is an educator and author.
His web site is www.SchoolofSelf-Reliance.com.]
Mia Wasilevich
is a chef, photographer, and naturalist who has learned to combine wild foods
with her love of cooking. She is the author of a cookbook focusing on invasive
and naturalized weeds entitled Ugly
Little Greens (Page Street Publishing 2017). She's currently a food
stylist in Los Angeles, California. On
Thursday, September 27, you can listen to her talk about local wild foods at
the Sierra Madre CERT meeting, 7 p.m. at the Hart Building in Memorial Park.
GETTING
STARTED WITH WILD FOODS
As a young child, Mia traveled to many countries, including Central and South
America, Australia, New Zealand and Europe.
It became evident to her that what Americans consider "weeds"
or wild plants are often regarded as food in many parts of the world.
Mia
noticed that weeds and invasive plants make an appearance as food in many
cultures. For example, morning glories in Asia, various types of nettles in
Africa, and lambs quarters in India.
Mia
began to wonder why this art of wildcrafting had faded from our own culture,
except for in a few vintage cookbooks. Eventually, she met a prolific set of
teachers, foragers, and “foodies” in the Los Angeles area and it inspired her
to use weeds in everyday cooking. She
calls these "everyday weeds" which
she attempts to make into recipes as interesting as possible, while keeping it
simple.
She’s
experimented with unique dishes made from many wild foods, but mainly focuses
on invasive plants, non-native plants which were brought here or have
migrated here, or whose seeds hitched a ride on travelers inadvertently. Some of the native wild plants she uses include
the acorn. One of her first creations was
the acorn burger, which is a substantial
and tasty meat substitute. She also
developed elderberry ketchup and barbeque sauce that have become yearly
staples of hers when the berries are abundant.
Among
the invasive green plants she uses, most can be used interchangeably and can
substitute familiar vegetables such and spinach, lettuce and mustard greens.
For example, chickweed (Stellaria media) and miner's lettuce (Claytonia
perfoliata) are two greens that pop up seemingly
everywhere whenever it rains in the early spring and winter and carpet most
backyards and hillsides. They have a lovely, delicate texture and can replace
lettuce or anywhere you want a cool, fresh, and green taste. They are excellent
raw but can be cooked as potherbs, as well. The chickweed is a common
European plant, while miner’s lettuce is a native.
"My favorite plants to harvest are drought-tolerant black
sage (Salvia melifera) when it grows profusely and, of
course, the stinging nettle (Urtica dioica) which many people forage
when they are first learning to identify plants,” she explains. Mia likes to infuse creams and chocolates
with black sage for a wonderful heady, mint-like experience. She also likes the
nettle plant, which she says is “completely
unique and I refuse to believe it tastes like spinach.” Mia describes nettles as a plant which embodies
"medicine as food," lending a complex green flavor to whatever dish
it graces. She also makes a "Nettle-ade" which uses dried nettle
tea, preserved lemon, sparkling water and a bit of honey or agave.
She has
created menus for special events that have included cactus and tequila paletas (popsicles) with
habanero ants, lambs quarters (Chenopodium ) seed croquettes with corn
milk and sweet white clover (Melilotus albus), white fir (Abies
concolor) sugar beignets and cream among other creations.
MMia, who
is half Native American (from the Southwest)
and half Russian (via Argentina), grew
up in Nevada and Southern California. “That’s a lot of food culture right here,”
she explains. “During my many childhood travels, the very local ingredients
made the foods of various places we traveled very special and memorable to me.”
She
points out that living in the Los Angeles area, she doesn’t have to drive far
to have an authentic ethnic food experience from just about anywhere in the
world.
“Once I
reached adulthood and was introduced to wild plants and foraging, I couldn’t
think of a reason not to use them for food as long as it was sustainable. Foraging
is a practice in being self- reliant. In addition, the plants that are in my book
are authentic to my environment, and they are also universal. This means that
these plants grow in many places all over the world and are used by so many
cultures in so many different ways. I think that’s neat.”
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